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Information
The Wave Refraction Model
The wave conditions along the Canterbury coast are simulated using the SWAN wave refraction model (Booij et al. 1999; Ris et al. 1999). For given incipient deep-water wave conditions and wind-field data, the SWAN model enables the effects of wave generation by local winds and refraction over the seabed to be taken into account. The method computes an equilibrium sea state for a given wind field and offshore boundary wave conditions as if these conditions had been present for an indefinite time. -
Disclaimer
The wave heights produced by this model are based on significant wave height calculated over a 20-minute sample. The maximum wave height for that same period will be markedly higher than what is shown.
The accuracy of the simulated wave heights depends on the validity of the assumptions made about deep-water wave conditions and the local wind speed and direction. At any given location, the local wind speed and direction in particular may not be accurately represented.
